20110901

Welcome to Shangri-La

Here, traffic lights do not exist (there was one set in capital Thimphu, but they were removed for being unfriendly), strict conservation laws mean trees still cover almost 75% of the country, and productivity is measured in Gross National Happiness.
This is a land of awesome mountains – some of the highest in the world – thick-forested valleys and imposing dzong, monastery fortifications often perched on cliffsides. It is a place where landscapes are dotted with blue poppies, snow leopards and innumerable banners of bright flapping prayer flags.
Yes, prayers. Bhutan takes its Buddhism seriously. The religion pervades all levels of life, resulting in peaceful temples, red-robed monks scurrying along the streets, a mind-blowing number of deities and legends, and a widespread belief in practicing kindness and loving to all sentient beingsParadise does not come cheap. In order to maintain the country’s pristine nature and spiritual integrity, the Government charges a hefty minimum fee to enter the country. Currently, visitors in peak season (February to May and August to December) must pay at least $200 per person per night; in the low season (January and June to July) the fee is $165. The government plans to increase the rate to $250 in 2012
This cost covers virtually all your expenses: accommodation, meals, a licensed Bhutanese guide, internal transport and trekking arrangements, should you wish to stretch your legs (the country offers some of the best hiking in the Himalayas).
But accommodation is not all encompassing. There are some super-luxurious properties in Bhutan that will set you back significantly, on top of the fee. But stays under canvas or in more mid-range lodgings should be covered.
Also note, higher fees apply if you do not travel as a group: single travellers pay an extra $40 per night, on top of the minimum day rate; couples an extra $30 per person per night. So you might want to find some like-minded friends...
A guide, and likely a separate driver, come as standard in Bhutan. Independent travel is forbidden.
If there is something you particularly want to experience – a certain tsechu (festival) or maybe an archery lesson (the national sport) – you can tailor-make a trip with the help of a specialist tour operator. But all itineraries must be approved by Bhutan’s Tourism Council, and accompanied by a local guide.
Your tour operator will also arrange your transport to Bhutan – you cannot book flights independently. Bhutan has just one international airport, at Paro (a scenic, if white-knuckle, landing amid the mountains); flights on national carrier Druk Air fly in from Nepal, India and Thailand. It is also possible to enter overland, but you will still need your travel plans – itinerary, visa, etc – arranged in advance by a tour operator

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